Category:3D printers (extrusion)

These are the most common form of popular 3D printer. They basically consist of a moving gantry crane type arrangement, driven by stepper motors, that allows a print head to be placed anywhere on the x, y and z axes.

The print head is a heated nozzle similar to a “glue gun”, into the back end of which is forced a filament of some sort of plastic material, fed from a spool clipped onto the back or side of the printer.

The model is built up in horizontal slices on the print bed (which is usually heated), the slices being drawn on top of each other by the print head as a stack, When a model has too much overhang, the slicer software typically generates additional temporary support “scaffolding” that supports the overhanging parts when they are being printed. These can be trimmed off (or snapped off) when the print is finished.

Control

Filament printers usually have a USB connection and an SD or micro-SD slot, and can be run live from a controlling PC, or can print a model that has previously been saved to the card. USB ports tend to withstand intensive use better than card slots.

The format for all these printers and their software was developed by the hobbyist/open source movement, so the industry-standard software to take a 3D model and “slice it up” for the printer (and let you change settings and addsupport material) is free and open source.

Consumables

Filament printers usually use reels of a material called 'PLA, which is available in different colours and textures, for about £20 per reel.

Advantages

Once a model comes out of a filament printer, it’s pretty much finished, apart from cutting away or snapping off any support material.

Filament printers are good for making comparatively large parts, where a ribbed appearance isn't an issue. They are especially good for making things like coathooks and camera-mounting accessories, and some cosplay enthusiasts use them for printing large tasks and armour piices that will later be sanded down (to remove the ridges) and painted.

Disadvantages

Parts made on a filament printer usually have a slightly "ribbed" appearance due to how the material is squirted on one later at a time. This is fine for functional parts such as brackets, and is sometimes not too noticeable, but the effect is difficult to get rid of completely, and can be annoying when making small chess-piece size models and figurines.

A filament printer is a hobby: expect to spend a fair amount of time experimenting with calibration, and considering upgrading the drive mechanism, the print bed, the print nozzle and/or the filament feeder.

Marketplace

Ready-built consumer filament printers have been steadily coming down in price, year on year, from about £600 a few years ago to a little over £100 (without filament material) for an entry-level machine.